Last Updated: Monday, April 02, 2007
Len & Pauline’s Trip Across The U.S.
September 14 – October 23, 2006
Starting In Short Hills, NJ - Heading:
West to Seattle, WA
South to Newport Beach, CA
North to Jackson, CA
East to Daytona Beach, FL
North to Short Hills, NJ
Click on any picture for the full view.
Getting started
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We left New Jersey on Thursday morning (Sept 14th) and took the interstate to Scranton.
We jumped on 6 from there to SR59 West and 219 North to Niagara Falls. Sweet road, SR6.
Rained most of the day, but only hard for about 20 minutes.
It's all good when you’re in the wind.
Had a good lunch in Wellsboro, PA.
Since it was raining (drizzle), we didn't go to the PA Grand Canyon.
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The Zippo Factory… it’s a must see roadside attraction.
The street lights are Zippos. The flag is made of Zippos.
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If your Zippo is damaged, they’ll fix it for free, or replace it..
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Caught sight of a wolf on 219 in NY State... awesome.
The Falls looked just like they did in '72.
It was a much nicer time with Pauline there.
The Marriott in Canada is expensive; but what isn't in a tourist town.
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We left Niagara Falls and cut across Canada to Port Heron, MI and down to Clinton Twp, MI
Dinner somewhere in MI with Pauline’s cousin.
We left Clinton Twp,
MI about 9:30am and hit the slab (I-75) to get our butts
up to Gaylord for a meet with Rand McNally (Bill) and Chilly (also Bill).
Met, fed, gas, and go. Rand puts on a great tour.
There are twisties in
MI (up in the thumb) A beautiful day it was.
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Stopped at the Legs
Inn for their Polish sampler with home-made rye bread....AWESOME!
Heading for the U.P. tomorrow, with Rand’s suggestions for roads: 2 - 13 - 28 -
2
And on into WI, and MN at some point
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Having the bike checked out by this dealership for a little hesitation.
From Mackinaw City, back down to Gaylord, MI to have the bike checked out for a little hesitation,
we went back to Mackinaw City and on to Manistique (#4) on the Upper Peninsula of MI.
After breakfast in Manistique, MI; Lake Michigan in the background.
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Manistique, Mi to Ironwood, MI. (#6) which is right on the border of Wisconsin.
Lots of rain, not pouring, but drizzle almost all the way today... down in the
low 50's, electrics
are keeping Pauline warm. State Road 2 to 94 to 28.
Left out of Ironwood, MI this morning bright and early around 9:30am
(that's early for us)
with the sun shining for the first full day of no rain.
Still cold, in fact *I* was using the electrics today.
I asked at the hotel where the great big statue of Hiawatha was.
She gave me directions (business 2 through town) and you can't miss him.
He's tall and can
withstand 140mph winds...
We missed him.
We've seen all the Great Lakes on this trip. Riding past Superior and
seeing some of the home names is pretty funny;
U.P. at Neun
Superior Hut
Belly Acres
Rancho Relaxo
Pretty strong winds on these lakes, not like my little 800 acre pond.
Posing by Lake Superior.
Mt. Shasta Restaurant
Anatomy Of A Murder (1959) was filmed here.
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Took 2 across Wisconsin and enjoyed the fall foliage. It's really
pretty up there, and
I guess about a week ahead of Vermont.
We got to Duluth, MN and decided to have a bite (nothing opens on the lake
until 11:30am).
We putzed around for about 20 minutes and had a GREAT lunch of burritos at a place
called Angie's Cantina on East Buchanan Street... the salsa and chips were excellent...
Welcome center outside Duluth, MN.
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Heading out of Duluth we took I-35 South for about 15 miles and picked up
State Road 210. Nice east-west road that cuts across the state of Minnesota.
Stopped for gas in Brainerd, (#7) and found out they moved Paul Bunyan up the road
about 7 miles. We didn't stop. If he's going to move and not leave a forwarding
address; that tells me he doesn't want the company. Also, I did NOT see ONE
blue ox. I'm
betting that's some kind of folk tale or something.
So, we’re about 3 miles from our destination... and about 500 feet from a
stop sign before getting in to Fergus Falls (#9), I feel a tap, tap, tap on my toe.
Yes-sir-ree, the linkage is broken. I dismount, look things over, get it into
1st gear, look around and see a lumber store on the corner and head over
to the store. Pick up some baling wire and viola; we're on the road again.
Started out in Fergus Falls, MN (#9), needing to get to a Harley Dealer to fix
the linkage... so I found one in Alexandria, MN (#10) 50 miles south; and
headed
down. Real good people at Apol's H-D... Robin (owner) is good friends
with
the owners of Schaeffer's H-D in PA. That's a good dealership also; even
bought Pauline's jacket there about 5 years ago...
So with the bike fixed, and saying our good-byes, Tom gave me his card and
told me to stop for dinner at the Cook County Saloon (near Devil's Tower),
and tell Shari he sent us. He said she'll take care of us...
hopefully he's talking about the food.
Leaving Alexandria, MN, (#10) we headed west on 27 to Herman (#11), and north
on 9 to
Tintah, and west again on 55 (this little backtrack was to get into North
Dakota).
We hit North Dakota, I-29 (#12) and headed south. Boring on the interstate, and just
before the rain started we pulled in to Watertown, SD (#13) for the night. More hot tub,
more
pool, and a sandwich of turkey, bacon, and cheese for dinner, which wasn't too
bad.
Tomorrow is due west on 212 to Redfield, SD, and south
on 281...west again on 14, headed for the Badlands (#15).
After the Badlands, we're going to Rushmore, Crazyhorse, Sturgis, &
Deadwood.
Nothing but rain... but at least it was a bit warmer, being way down here in the
South. <g> Left out of Watertown, SD (#13) and headed west on 212. Passing through
Clark, SD... there's an artist there who's creating art for those who pass by.
I didn't stop for pictures, but I'll look it up on the internet and see what's what.
I did notice about 8 cars all red with white tops, all the same year
(late '70s, I think)
and they looked like Mercurys.
The road between Clark & Redfield is in need of repair and isn't
recommended.
At Redfield, we headed south on 281 (great road) and there's
actually an "S" turn.. right there in Eastern South Dakota. Who'da thunk.
Only 25 miles, and
then it was west again on 14 and on into Pierre.
14 is full of farms with sunflowers abounding... most of them are dead or
dying by now, and the rain and cold is keeping them down and drooping... but
interesting enough there were a few fields with some actually looking for the
sun...
I did stop and get
pictures. It's awesome... and brings me
another search on the internet to find out how they are harvested.
Tomorrow we pick up an hour crossing the Missouri River, so we're off to the
Badlands. Our plan is to enter the park at the southern tip and head north
towards
Wall. Depending on time, we'll try to get in Crazyhorse and Rushmore
tomorrow.
It will probably be a washout with the rain.... but then again...I'm meandering...
South Dakota sunflowers.
Pierre, SD to Rapid City, SD.
14 out of Pierre crosses the Missouri and we get to set the clock back one
hour. As we head out it's raining (surprise, surprise), but the wind is
what's the problem today... 40mph steady crosswind coming from the northeast
with gusts over 60mph. The rain is supposed to stop by 6pm this evening
(in Pierre), so we're hoping it'll stop earlier for us, since we're heading into it.
As we're riding along at about a 30 degree angle into the wind, and it's raining
and Pauline's gloves are filling up with water because the rain is about
horizontal... we decided to stop and get out of the wind, change riding
gloves for Pauline, and the ONLY place was a little store on the side of
the road (which turned out to be the post office too).
We stop, dismount,
and head into the shack which is the local
store and P.O... the guy behind the counter looks at the both of us, wired,
soaked, and covered from head to foot in some sort of space suites... and says:
"So, who's idea was *this*?" People are funny.
Stopped for a cup of coffee in Philip and chatted with the owner (and his
wife and daughter) of the gas station for a while. He wouldn't let us pay
for the coffee. People that aren't from NJ are really nice.
Went through Cottonwood, SD... population 19.
I was going to take 14 to 73 and head south to the southern entrance of the
Badlands National Park, and head north to Wall (#14).
But, since it looks nicer towards Wall, we head for the Drug Store.
What a hoot... if you're in the neighborhood, don't bother.
Except for the many historic pictures,,, it's just another big tourist trap,,,
with terrible food everywhere. We took about an hour in Wall and the
rain subsided... as a matter of fact, the sun actually shown.
Wall, SD (#14) – Wall Drug Store tourist trap.
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We
headed southeast to the northern entrance of the Badlands and had a
beautiful, but windy ride. Spectacular... prairie dogs and all.
Nature in
all it's glory. (#14, #15, #16)
The Badlands in SD
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Leaving the Badlands,
we picked up 44 west and headed to Rapid City... along
the way we stopped for a picture with a dinosaur, and you can't pass up a
chance to see Scenic (#17) and the old stone jail.
Scenic, South Dakota
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Outside of Scenic, SD on our way to Rapid City, SD.
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Another thought from the road... in Michigan we passed road kill of black squirrel (I've never seen a black squirrel)
and porcupines; in Minnesota we passed road kill of mostly raccoons; in South Dakota... it's all skunk... and one cow.
Mount Rushmore in the background.
On our way to Mount Rushmore
Not a very good bun
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I really wanted to
get in as much riding as I could through the Black Hills... did I mention I
*hate* to backtrack?
We left Rapid City, SD and took 79 south towards Hermosa where we picked up 40
towards Mount Rushmore (#21).
This is the way to get to Rushmore with some spectacular views of the mountain before you actually get there.
The whole facility has changed since the last time I was there with The Banker, much to the better. A little more
organized with the flow of people and traffic (being there in Sept instead of Aug has a lot to do with that also)...
and the state flags
flying as you walk up to the observation deck is a nice touch. We took
pictures, we left.
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Heading away from Rushmore (#21), take Alt 16 south and stop at the vistas
afforded to look back at the monument... there are a few tunnels carved
out
of the rock and the views through one tunnel frames the monument perfectly.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get the shot I wanted of Rushmore through the tunnel.
But, it’s there.
As you head south on
Alt16 (really nice twisty road), you come into Custer
State Park... lots of animals to see and we spotted buffalo and buckhorn
along with whitetail deer... turkeys everywhere.
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Coming off Alt16, you pickup 36 and take that to 87 which is still in
Custer State Park, and it becomes Needles Highway (#24).
We got to see some climbers repelling.
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The picture below (middle) is “The Eye Of The Needle”.
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87 winds around to 89 which takes you back to 16 and into Custer. At the second light,
you turn right and head to Crazyhorse Mountain. BTDT but Pauline hadn't so we made
our donation and
stopped for the tour of the facilities and pictures.
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Back out to 16 and it becomes 385 which runs through Hill City.
From there it was on
to Deadwood, Sturgis, and Gillette, WY for the night.
As we left the Black Hills and headed across Wyoming, I was struck once
again by the treeless landscape. How is it there can be so many trees in
one spot, and a mile or two away... nothing.
135 miles of Black Hills today (#19 - #27).... Pauline's on sensory
overload and is sound asleep.
We finally had our second great meal at the Prime Rib Restaurant in Gillette, WY (#28).
Escargot for me, a spicy chicken soup for Pauline, and we both
had prime rib which was tender and juicy. mmmmm.
Looking at the snow capped Bighorn Mountains.
Well it isn't exactly meandering... Had to choose... north or south, picked north to Seattle,
so instead of Cody, Beartooth, Yellowstone, and the Tetons, we opted to take the slab I-90
and get as close to Helena as possible (we landed in Livingston, MT tonight).
We stopped and did the Custer – Little Big Horn thing... interesting to say the
least. What a bonehead.
Beautiful vistas of the Big Horn Mountains (with snow, just West of Buffalo,
WY) and a touch of the
Rockies today. No
traffic, and as an aside... the speed limit is 75mph... and nobody really
going much faster. If this was Jersey, they'd be pushin' 90.
If you're in the neighborhood of Livingston, MT... Ribs & Chop House is the
place for dinner... Ribeye done to perfection with mushroom stuffing on the
side, and a gumbo sausage soup that would rival any I've had in New Orleans.
Pauline's side was a sweet potato casserole which was better than Mutt's
that we had at South Carolina Under the Moon.
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Our reason for heading north rather than south yesterday was to get to Helena
and meet Carol Mandera
If you're ever traveling from Livingston, to Missoula, MT (or
visa-versa).ALWAYS go through Helena
(unless you *need* to go to Butte for some strange reason). The route is about 7 miles difference,
and the speed is the
same except for a couple of towns,,, but the nice thing is the views, the
Missouri River, and Canyon Ferry Lake... not to mention Carol.
Carol was warm, sweet, intelligent and easy to be with. Our lunch was too
quick, and we'll be back to take in more of her hospitality, someday..
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On 12 leaving Helena (heading west of course), is Mullen Pass, magnificent
views and big, fast sweepers.
My only mistake on this route is not taking 141 north to 200 and 200 into Missoula.
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The other side of Missoula, we picked up 12 West again to head towards Lolo, MT, and on to Idaho.
After Lolo, there's Lolo Hot Springs where a couple from Washington, NJ built the Lolo Hot Springs Motel.
Can't say much for the place other than it's big and expensive and has free hot springs.
At $90 per night it's
mighty expensive for a step above skuzzy.
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The restaurant next door (not affiliated with the Motel)
had decent ribs and good beer for a decent price
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I've been here
before. But I didn't remember how sweeeet this road is. .Idaho 12.
177 smiles of curves. Let me say this, this stretch of road is the *best*
continuous route in the world.
There are roads that are more fun,
there are roads that
offer better vistas,
there are roads that have clear clean water running next to them,
there are roads that have people fly fishing next to them,
there are roads that have trains next to them,
but *none* of those road do it for 177 miles.
If I'm mistaken, please let me know the road... I want to go there too.
Just too beautiful, you almost get to the point of "where will this thing
end,,,, ".
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Taking a pit stop in Greer, ID.
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There's a good little bakery/deli in Dayton, WA (it's across the street from Don's PDQ gas station.
Really big sandwiches, and very good cinnamon buns... (Cinnabon(tm) is still the best)
Coming out of Clarkston, WA on 12 Pauline mentioned the hills above the
valley looked like velvet. As we passed through the farmland of lower
Washington, it all looked like gold velvet. That is until you get to
the
apple and wine country... and everything turns green, thanks to the Snake River.
This country is magnificent... I can't get enough of it.
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Today the road led us
to Mt. Rainier.
12 to 410 and Chinook Pass; took a lot of pictures.
On the way, we stopped at a fruit stand, picked up a pear, a white peach,
and 4 apples. Ate the pear and peach right there on the spot. I was
interested in how different the white peach was compared to what they grow
in South Carolina. I bit into it thinking of how it *should* taste, and
was
surprised by the difference. It tasted so sweet it almost tasted like a
pear. The SC white peaches are my favorite by far, although they're
sweet,
they are not as sweet as this Washington one. Neither is better, just
different. When we got to the top of Chinook, we sat and took in the
snowy
peak of Mt. Rainier and finished the apples.
Chinook Pass
State Road 410 looking west at Chinook Pass
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State Road 410 looking east – Rest stop at the pass
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Come around the bend of Chinook Pass,
and this is what awaits you
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Picture Post Card Perfection.
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Descending Rainer – going north on 410
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This picture shows all the evergreens, with one little spot of bushes turning into the fall colors.
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Same spot, looking back towards Rainer
From there, it was a ride (with views of Rainer everywhere) west on 164 to
Enumclaw
for lunch at the Cafe Panini (home made pies). When we ordered the cherry pie, it was
the last slice; the owner/waitress gave it to us for free because it didn't look up to her
standards! So, if ya go there, look for the last piece of pie in the tin. (I used to own a
bar and the last one
in the bottle was always free... they don't do that anymore)
Went across the street, got a haircut and trim.
On to I-5 and up to Lake Forest Park (#36), lots of traffic, lots of
construction... but safe and sound 4,012 miles.
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When last we left our
heroes, they had stopped in on some friends in NE
Seattle on Thursday evening. We all took a leisurely walk down to Lake
Washington, with some wine and watched the sun go down over a Bald Eagle
chirping at us. Sea food for dinner; king crab legs,,, yummy.
Took in all the tourist stuff on Friday; floating bridges,
Alki Tavern
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Pacific Ocean,
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The view of Seattle from Alki
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the Original Starbucks, Public Market
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with the Piggy Bank,
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fish throwing, fish catching, flowers,
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pepper/garlic bunches, cheese, nuts, etc..
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Post Alley
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Lunch at the Pink
Door (REALLY good food), watched para-sailing, saw
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Rainer from downtown (did I mention it was 75 degrees and sunny?
the locks at Lake Washington, (and a really good Ricky Ranger explaining the Salmon Ladder);
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and last but not
least, giving the lady of the house a ride, along with her 12 year old son who
couldn't wipe the grin off his face for about 3 hours.
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Friday was the first day since Michigan we traveled on 4 wheels.
Interesting, these vehicles that need more than 2 wheels to traverse the
ground...
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Saturday, up and at 'em at about noon... only about 120 miles to go today...
time to go harass
Snarl and Jeanne, make them entertain and feed us.
I wanted to get over to the Western side of the Hood Canal and head south on
101 for the ride to Snarl's. Went to Edmonds and took the
Edmonds/Kingston ferry.
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104 West (gotta love *that* road).
As we crossed the bridge over the Hood Canal, it looked like rain up ahead... 5
miles further and we were in fog and rain, it felt like the Pacific North Wet. Turn
around, get back over the bridge, and head down 3 to meet up with S & J at
Spencer Lake Bar and Grill... sunny and warm, once again (Jeanne I mean, not
the weather). Steamers with plenty of garlic and a few Coors later, and it's time
to follow Snarl back to Snarl's Den; giving Jeanne a ride and not even knowing'
she was back there. Time for a cigar and some more beer and then dinner of
salad, lasagna, and
garlic bread... Delicious!
Snarl & Jeanne, thank you again for your hospitality... it's was great to
have you one
on one instead of a big old party where I have to share you with everyone
Sunday, October 1st, 2006; a brand new month, a brand new
day, and fresh ground
coffee in the woods that are Snarl's.
We weren't sure how the weather was going to hold, but if it was clear, we
were going to head over to Mt. St Helens (#42).
It's an easy ride going over 505 to 504.
504 has some superb
sweepers, and great views of the volcano.
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We left Albany, OR (#43) this morning and just bee-bopped passed
Eugene and over to State Road 58. 58 is a nice two laner that's pretty
straight from I-5 to Lowell (about 12 miles).
At Lowell, don't miss
the covered bridge...
but from there, all the way to 97 is twisty/sweeper heaven (about 80 miles).
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There's something to be said about a road that follows a river; and when that
road and that river have a train added,,, it's just nirvana for me. This road does
it all. You'll hit 5,000 feet with a beautiful view of the valley and Diamond Peak,
and you'll be able to run 70mph through the sweepers (slow down if you
have someone on the
back that doesn't like the sound of sparks).
Pay attention to your wife when she's screaming at you with her helmet on.
We both got off the bike, parked on an incline (you see where this is going),
and I put it in gear just for that reason. As I got off the bike and headed for
the Kodak moment... she was still struggling with her helmet and the bike,,,,
sliding ever so slowly down the incline. No harm, no foul... it didn't really go
that far, but we both got a pretty big laugh out of it.
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97 South is pretty boring, but it's only 15 miles and it goes by really quickly
at speed. A right on to 138 and you're on one dead straight road through
tree
cutting country for 30 miles to the entrance of Crater Lake National Park.
I took pictures, but they don't do it justice. That's one big hole in the ground.
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We had lunch at the
Crater Lake Lodge and had a nice conversation with the
Bellhop/Doorman at the place. Seems he and his wife work for Xanterra
(the
park and resort hospitality people), and his gig at Crater Lake is up this
month and
he gets to spend the winter at the Grand Canyon. They'll stay there a year and tour the area
(he gets about a 300 mile radius) and then on to the next stop.
Sounds like a pretty
good gig. He seemed like one happy camper.
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The final leg, 234 took us through some farm country and was pretty straight
back to I-5 and a bit north to Grants Pass for the night.
We've decided to do Mt. Shasta next time, and headed for the California Coast
(State Road 199, Crescent City) and the Redwoods tomorrow.
I screwed up, big
time. For this trip, when we pull into a town where we're
going to stop for the night, I have been running all the way through town to
see what's what, and maybe find an interesting place to stop, or eat. We
pulled into Grants Pass, OR last night and I just shut her down... my bad.
Since it's the beginning of the month, we had bills to pay and things to do
at the hotel, so we just pulled in and got a room. We walked across the
street, had dinner (terrible.. Hart's something or other... ugh). Came
back
to the room and did the bills thing, and conked out.
This morning as we passed through Grants Pass on 199 south, we saw plenty of
great places to eat. Grants Pass looks like it has a nice little downtown
area
complete with big
life-sized wooden eagles perched here and there.. nice touch.
Oh well, opportunity lost,,, but today was special. We passed a place
that
does wood working stuff with Burled wood... I was in awe at what I saw.
Tree forts 40 feet up, with burled wood all over the place. There was a
guy
working some wood with power tools in one. I need one of the swings he
was
working on for the cabin in SC. Harvey's the owner and did a nice job
showing us around and explaining this and that. "It's A Burl"
is the name
of the place, in Kerby, OR. Stop in,,, it's worth the time.
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Except for the Burled wood place, 199 is pretty boring in Oregon.... but
once it hits California... OH BOY! Smith River National Rec Area... full
of
twisties for 40 miles and it doesn't stop until you hit 101 in Crescent City, CA.
From Crescent City to Eureka, there are some small tastes of what's to come...
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Elk along 101 in California
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The Avenue of the Giants.
More of what mother nature has to offer.
Those are some big trees,,, and everything around you looks extra small.
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We paid our 3
bucks and did the "Drive thru a Tree" tour, and pictures.
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There's some nice twisties on 101 just north of Route 1, but once you hit 1...
the fun begins
1 from 101 to Fort Bragg is 44 miles. 22 miles is just twisties through the mountains...
the other 22 miles is
twisties down the Pacific Coast.
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Today, we *really* meandered... from Ft. Bragg (#48) to Half Moon Bay (south of SF)...
Birds on rocks south
of Fort Bragg
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We meandered through
Mendocino.
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We meandered through
Elk.
We meandered down 1, until we reached Bodega Bay.
At Bodega, we decided to have lunch and stopped at a place that looked
inviting and was on the water. The Tides was the name, and it was for the
birds. Really, ask Alfred.
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We meandered off 1.
We meandered to Petaluma... oops.
We meandered back to 1.
We meandered through a forest of Eucalyptus (I think).
We meandered through a seal breeding area,
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We meandered through Stinson Beach (#53).
We meandered to the top of Golden Gate National Recreation Area for that Kodak
moment.
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We stopped at Half Moon Bay (#54) just before the rain.
